Atop Telegraph Hill, standing proudly at attention like a poorly concealed Freudian slip, is Coit Tower. While the name itself has been known to evoke a snicker or two, the charm of the fluted tower-- rising proudly erect in the shape of a "fire hose nozzle"-- lies mostly in the history of its colorful namesake and in the depression-era murals that decorate its interior. Plus, the views are pretty nice.

The tower is named after Lillie Hitchcock-Coit, who, at her death in 1929, bequeathed $118,000 to San Francisco for the beautification of the City. Hitchcock-Coit was known as the mascot and patron saint of the City's old volunteer fire department. Local legend has it that she ran away during her wedding ceremony to follow her favorite fire engine, the Knickerbocker no. 5. Apparently she was very fond of the pumper trucks. And of the fireman. And their nozzles. The story goes that Coit Tower, erected in her name, is designed in the shape of a fire nozzle to reflect Lillie's affection for the firemen of San Francisco. However, historical documents apparently show that there is in fact no connection between the architectural design and Lillie's love of nozzles. The myth persists however, since it's the only PG-rated explanation locals could come up with to tell the tourists.

More impressive than the City vistas from the top of the tower are the depression-era murals that cover the interior walls of the first floor. The federal government funded the mural project as part of the New Deal Public Works Administration project. Since this was one of the first PWA projects, the twenty-six participating artists were pretty much given free reign to paint whatever they wanted, and officials were less than pleased with the final result. The 3,600 square feet of mural-- done in a Rivera-esque style-- depict agricultural and industrial life in California with a Marxist twist. Visitors can amuse themselves by cataloging the oh-so-subtle revolutionary icons, like the newspaper stand carrying The Daily Worker and the prominent copy of Das Kapital. After the completion of the murals, officials actually closed the display for several months due to its "questionable" content, but in the end, only the single hammer and sickle image was painted over.

For a couple of bucks, visitors can take a brief elevator ride up to the top of the tower to enjoy the 360-degree view. However, the views from the base of the tower park are pretty nice, too. And they're free! The Bay, Alcatraz Island, Golden Gate Bridge, and the neighborhoods below are all on display from the base of the tower. To the east, look for the winding block of Lombard Street, which seems even stranger and more incongruous from a distance.

Beware: parking is a real pain at Coit Tower. There are approximately 3 parking spots on the top of the hill, and on weekends there's always a long line of cars winding their way up waiting for an opening. Instead, take Muni to North Beach and hike the rest of the way up.